A very heavy pine beam is loaded with pine sap, how to remove for gluing?

I will get some pics of the Cumaru worm shoe, here is what they did to the forward white oak keel in 7 years. I thought Cumaru being so hard would keep worms out of the oak, but no. They started with the Cumaru, went through that and into the white oak, and big tunnels they made.

 

I have only fixed the first half of the keel, will have to jack the boat to work on the other part of the Cumaru worm shoe, that will take some days ahead from now. There was little left of what I pulled off even with bare hands.

The new worm shoe, I bought some special marine treated SYP at 2.5 treatment level, made for docks and submerged dock repairs. I don't care so much if that gets crushed while blocking, but I want to keel wood to be strong. It is pure beautiful knot free stuff.

 

Yeah, thats nasty. Used to coat deadwoods with creosote, but all the "good stuff" that was actually effective has mostly been banned. Be interesting how the pressure treated stuff holds up.

 

It is supposed to be resistant to worms

Cumaru wormshoe with worm channels



The surface is riddled with holes, inside must be too. This is in the rear keel which had less worm damage. I just moved the keel block to pull it off today



7 years ago, it was new wood, and the outer surface was smooth. I dont know what all the surface defects are. Baby worms getting started? I used my grinder to smooth and expose the wood surface

 

How it looked when new

 

Broke open end of Cumaru, all eaten up on the inside.

 

The SYP 2.5 treatment level PT wood to replace it, supposed to be much better against borers
I bought 2, 16 foot 2x8. These are a true 2x8 inches and beautiful clear wood, no knots.
Bottom board, I already used part of in the forward keel repair

Very green due to high copper arsenic level.
Meant for marine dock construction
I plan to use the full thickness
Plan is cut down the middle and attach as a worm shoe to bottom of skeg using 316 SS 3 inch long screws

Place I bought them from in the area has hundreds of these perfect boards
Decent marinas that care about their docks uses these as supports for walking decks
They get bolted to round pilings driven into mud, They can hold a lot of weight.

 

Last lot of PT timber i bought had a very "white" inside. It looked like the treatment had only penetrated 15% of the surface. For posts that were supposed to survive being in ground contact or buried, i took the worst offenders back. I was told the "treatment" was still in the core of the wood, but as some posts were green all the way through, i called BS.

 

Since I cut all the way through this, it is fully the same green color to the core.
Definitely want to know is fully preservative treated to the very center.

A wood boat waterman guy says you can spray your wood hull with Roundup, let it dry, then coat it with paint, and the roundup helps keep away worms.

 

Not sure about that, glyphosphate affects enzymes in plant matter. Anti-freeze with ethylene glycol though.....

 

How about spray the inside of hull with a water soluble pesticide. something that will dry in the wood.
An oily pesticide wont be good as it may gas off and poison the air in the boat.

I have treated wood with 90% alcohol that has boric acid roach powder dissolved in it. Used a toothbrush to scrub it onto the wood.
Done that after removing rotted wood on the solid wood edges. Areas I have repaired have never rotted again.
Some years ago, I heated up water and dissolved boric acid in it and sprayed it on the inside hull areas. It has no odor.

On another forum some laughed at me, and said it would rot again. Said I had to replace the entire plank.
What I did was cut back the edge to solid wood, treat it with alcohol and boric acid, then glue on new wood strip to repair the board edge.

 

View before the repair. I fixed this in 2014
Those laughing comedy errors would have replaced the whole boat

 

Sounds like the infamous WBF. No end of people who believe their online opinion is "fact".

Borates definately work. Somebody here did a lot of testing with glycol with positive results. I dont know anyone who licks their food of treated wood, so i assume that the only time is pays to be careful is in the application process.

I do remember using some "Ronseal Wood Hardener", that was off the head smelly acetone based stuff. Ok for temporary fix, though a friend treated a rotted shaft hole in backbone oak followed by epoxy and that held up for years.

 

Boric acid definitely keeps away the fungus, it is actually a little water soluble, so it moves into the wood.
WBF, exactly so. Oh boy did they hate me, attacked constantly some 20 + years ago.
I had many threads and thousands of posts.
I suppose a bunch of those old farts are dead now.

They were even opposed to using any kind of PT wood even if it was perfect and beautiful knot free.

 

I bought this for a new worm shoe and some skeg keel work
2.5 level arsenic copper treated, 16 foot long. Very nice grain, no knots.
I used some for the forward keel fix and going to use 42 more inches for the middle keel fix.




nice grain. I bought 2 of these. They are very heavy.