Building a new daggerboard

I have accounted for the fiberglass in the design but not in the template. I’ll need to remake those to account for the glass. Thank you!

 

Currently, I don’t have a daggerboard or rudder and it’ll be cheaper to make one than buy what I want. But I agree, hardware will only get you so far, experience and skill is what I need to work on. Thank you!

 

The leading and trailing edges are what is going to get the most attention, I want to buy a jointer hand plane to shape it, something like this. 22" Jointer Plane, Smooth Sole - Grizzly Industrial, Inc. https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-22-jointer-plane-smooth-sole/h8841?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22605790296&gbraid=0AAAAAC0Fba3-S48yNdm7TObQlqJ3c647a&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_PO33KfkjQMViDBECB1nOyfDEAQYDyABEgKa6PD_BwE

Thank you!!

 

That plane will work if you plan to have the foil section carried all the way to the top of the new board.If the boat has a rectangular slot,as many do,there will be a lot of free play.Have you taken this into account?

 

Yes, I actually have! I plan to have a couple pin slots in the daggerboard to allow for it to be held at different points. The top 18” of the daggerboard can be square, but below that will be the foil.

One idea was to fill the box with expanding foam, using the daggerboard to create a void that is form fitting. Then glass over the area of the foam filled box.

Another idea was to fit two blocks on each end of the box to take up space and hold the daggerboard’s leading and trailing edge.

Or a third option, get a block of wood or closed cell foam the size of the box and a couple inches thick. Cut out the shape of the foil in the block and fit it into the bottom of the box. That will create a smooth surface on the bottom and hold the daggerboard in place.

I’m more inclined to go with the two blocks or the block fitted into the bottom of the box. That will make it easier to change, should I ever change the daggerboard.

 

I think you may have missed my point,a lengthy plane will be of little use until you have removed the wood that occupies the space that allows the portion between the mouth of the plane and the heel to sit at the correct level.Put another way,you need a sharp spokeshave or two and in reality a shorter plane.The sharpness of the spokeshave is really important and a convex sole will allow a sharper transition than a flat spokeshave will permit.A number 4 or 5 plane will be a better choice and it too will need to be really sharp.Once you have the correct tools and I emphasise again that they need to be sharp,it is just a case of taking off lots of shavings until the final shape emerges.

 

‍ I’m an idiot. Yes, I will start with a shorter plane. I have a Bailey #4 and a #5 1/2. I’m still working on my sharpening skills but I can get it sharp enough to get a clean cut.