How I cut a 5 foot long taper cut on a table saw

This requires a straight guide and longer than the piece to cut board.
Watched some vids to give me ideas

I first drew my cut line on both sides to cut.
Lined up to the guide board of same height.
The width of the cut will be the same at front and aft of the board to cut, in my case, was 3 7/16 to give me the wide end of 1 1/8" and a narrow taper point at other end.
Drilled four screw holes for 3" screws
Screw are at front and more than half way down the boards.
Used a shim to hold the space.
This creates a solid enough formwork to pass it straight down the table saw

After first cut flip end for end and finish the cut, my blade is not wide enough to do in one cut.
It aligned perfectly.
Results look very good
Before the cut


After the first cut


After end for end flip and second cut


Flat all the way across and down the board.
I am keeping the narrow ended board for the skeg repair.
I ran a string down my keel and I need a wedge shape of this size to make it flat as the very aft skeg keel end is slightly too high by about an inch



The left over piece I can use for the front worm shoe
When OEM built this hull, they used a 1" board. I am using a 2" board.
At the bow they notched the keel to accept a 1" worm shoe and it has a slight upward bend. I think this board can be bent into that space, and the taper allow for a 1 to 2" transition. The forward keel edge also tapers width wise too, it gets narrower as it moves forward. Which means cut or grind the sides as I put it into place.

 

You can see that notch for the worm shoe circled in red.
Moving up the bow, this edge is covered by a SS heavy half round screwed into keel

I was able years ago to bend Cumaru to fit. I think this treated SYP will also fit. It gets narrower and thinner here.

 

Went out there and glued on the long wedge, looks straighter now, the keel edge.

It is better to set it like it should be, as if I don't, the bolts will be too long.
And or the thick worm shoe to go on the keel wont fit flat.
I may have to put a wood block under the nut on a few anyway.

 

Sometimes pics are deceptive, here is how much of a bend the front worm-shoe has, not a lot
Narrow at front and wider at back
I am thinking that 60 inch leftover from the cut can go in here

 

Good to see progress. Your saw bed could do with a squirt of duck oil.

 

it has gotten a little surface rust, I pulled it out of garage for more working room. It is a Grizzly saw from the mid 80's
Years ago I had to replace the motor, new one is wired to 240vac and it's 3 hp